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Don't pull the dizzy till you check the firing order again because it sounds wrong. Try 13726548 or 15426378 1234 on the passenger side and 5678 on the drivers. Good luck!!

There is a difference between being afraid and being stupid. There is no way a stock 5.0 will handle a 300 shot more than a couple times by a trained professional. The torque from a 300 shot will turn thun that block into a pile of iron. Realisticaly, keep it under a 150 shot and you will be safe.

Welcome to NYM! I love the SN95!!

Welcome to NYM! Awesome car too!! I like when people use creativity with their rides!

Welcome to NYM!!

Welcome to NYM! Where in Erie county are you from? I live in North Collins.

Still for sale. Just replaced the rear air shocks and this thing rides like you wouldn't believe. The car has been beautifully maintained. Give me what I owe on it which is $6,000 and it's all yours. I may consider a reasonable offer since I have 5 cars and this one never gets driven now.

ahh nevermind. The kit is $385 new and the purge kit is $119. By the time you buy a bottle you aren't saving much so I might as well keep it.

I have a used NOS Sniper wet kit adjustable from 50 to 125hp. Complete with everything except a bottle. Also includes a purge kit and all wiring and switches. $300 shipped. Let me know.

How much you want to spray? Dry or wet kit?

Uhhhh yeah!!!! Way under LOL!! I wouldn't spray for than 125 on a stock block. I'm a big fan of NOS brand stuff and I've never had a problem with their equipment. I've been tossing around the idea of selling my NOS sniper kit off my '94. Adjustable from 50 to 125 HP with a fogger nozzle that...

Thanks for clearing that up Joel. I new Mikes was an F-1 something but not sure LOL. Rob, my buddy has a chinese twin turbo kit for sale brand new in the box. I have seen it in person, looks OK but there is absolutely no names anywhere on it so repair parts would be harder than hell to find...

Well the no, you don't need a ompressor, just elbow grease!!

Hey you never know until you try right? That's how I learned almost all I know! I watched, studied, read and kept at it until I knew how to do something. I never went to school to be an auto mechanic, build race engines, manual transmissions, chassis fabrication or anything else but I can do it...

Yep. That's it. Once its done check what the timing is at idle. It should be around 12 -14. It should start much better too. Good luck.

Well, I'm a big fan of hands on learning so If you are really mechanically savvy grab a book on how to set them up, get a pinion depth guage and and a ring and pinion setting tool with dial indicator, a shim kit and a couple beers! LOL It's cost you the same as having someone else do it then...

Ok hold on LOL. The car NEEDS 32-34 degrees advanced at FULL advance around 3500 to 4000 rpm. The big question is this! Is your distributor locked out??? I can't help you until you tell me that because it seems your missing what I'm trying to tell you. However, if it's NOT locked at 32 degrees...

If you have 32-34 degrees of timing at idle I'm hoping the distributor is locked out LOL. If not you are gonna have serious problems. If it is locked at 32-34 degrees then you need to install a start retard so you can pull timing while cranking to make it easier to start. If you are not sure if...

What is the timing at idle?

The car needs 32 degrees of timing at full advance about 3500rpm. What is the rpm at idle? It should be between 12 and 16. It it's locked out at 32 idling then taht is why it starts hard, especially when when the engine is hot or the temp outside is hot.