Winter mods vortech/kmember questions

[svtnotch]

Looking to add 125 rwhp and reduce some vehicle weight over the winter. I think im going tubular k member and front coil overs. Anyone know the weight savings ive heard 50-60 lbs. Also going with fiberglass hood 1.5 cowl.
Im looking for 125 rwhp have 375.9 and 369 ftlbs now. Thinking about vortech v3. MMFF got 96 rwhp from $2000 lowboost vortech v3 5-6 psi. http://www.musclemustangfastfords.c...rger_mustang_5l_engine_kit_upgrade/index.htmlAre these results typical for low boost kit. Vortech says 50 hp gain. Id like to keep it under 500rwhp w/ stock block. What supercharger would you guys recommend for 125 rwhp on my 347 ? If i got the vortech v3 si with higher boost can it be detuned to keep my hp goals. Thanks

 

[EHA Racing]

I agree with the vortch blower or even a Procharger. I would say 40 to 50 lbs savings with a chromemoly k-member, a-arms and coil overs.

 

[BadA55f0Xxx]

Yea you will definately be saving tha much weight between the k member and hood you will b good . .I don't kno much about blowers but heard and read great things from both those superchargers as well as paxtons. .good luck

 

[svtnotch]

I like the vortech need to decide which one sci low boost or si high output .

 

[BadA55f0Xxx]

wouldnt you go low boost on the stock block?

 

[cobra20sc]

don't waste your time with the low boost kit, you'll regret it later. get the full boost kit and limit the top end power to your goal by pulling timing out. you'll get more/better mid to low end torque this way as well.

just my 2 cents.

 

[svtnotch]

Thanks cobra20sc just the info i was looking for. What are your cooling system mods on the cobra?

 

[cobra20sc]

Not much out of the ordinary, 2X1inch core aluminum radiator from Ron Davis, Edelbrock water pump, slimline electric fan from SPAL.

By the way, as an alternative, check out the turbo kits from BG customer turbo. If I could do it all over again, I would have done turbo instead of a supercharger. In fact, I'll sell you my Vortech setup.

-Chris

 

[1BIGMOFO]

There you go Kev!

 

[jkstang78]

I did a tubalar kmember swap. I post it on listangs this year with the weight difference from factory parts. I'm not on a computer right now. But if any is on that site just search my screen name & post the link up

Ok just looked up. It is in the chassis and suspension section on listangs.com 2nd page if any1 wants to read it

But I wrote it down

Old K- member weights 49lbs
Control arms each 12.6 lbs
Total of 74.2 lbs

New Team Z K-member 17.2 lbs
A arm's each 3.8 lbs
Total 24.8 lbs

Total loss of 49.4 lbs

 

[svtnotch]

Any issues with the team z k member install?

 

[jkstang78]

No was straight foward. I have all the pics on the other site

 

[svtnotch]

Ill do the k member coilover kit 1st. Ill have to investigate the turbo some more price always turned me away. Bg custom turbo has good prices under $3000 and torque looks awesome. Power adder may wait.
Im going to concentrate on traction and harnessing power i already have. Best 60 ft time on dr was 1.850 which needs major improvement. No sense in adding more power and spinning worse. Thanks for all the helpful info.

 

[jkstang78]

87notch what is you current suspension setup for racing

Also turbo is the way to go.

 

[svtnotch]

Eibach 1.5 lowering springs, energy suspension poly motor,tranny,crossmember and sb endlinks. Hpm megabyte jr lca and subframe connectors. I have the hpm upper need to buy spherical bushings and install. Thinking about going to go coilover fr + back and global west traclink. Id like suspension to be streetable and be able to adjust at drags.

 

[jkstang78]

Ok the lowering springs are killing you. Megabytes are good. I have the uppers and lowers. They have held up to 1.36 60 fts. If you setup a car for drag racing your going to loose all the tight conering. There kind of is no way around that. It is either 1 or the other. My setup is decent on the street. I'll post it up tomorrow so you can some ideas

 

[jkstang78]

Ok just fixed my laptop here is my suspenssion setup

Front sway bar delete
Strange adjustable struts
Lakewood 50/50 shocks
subframe connectors
Megabyte Jr.s lower control arms
Megabyte upper adjustables control arms
Flaming River Manual rack and Maximum Motorsports Steering Shaft
Baseline Suspension ANTI ROLL BAR
Team Z Tublar k-member and tubalr A-arms and coilover kit
10 point cage

 

[1980rustang]

im planning on throwing a k member in my 1980 soon also cause im doing a 3.3l to 5.8l swap

 

[cobra20sc]

Ok the lowering springs are killing you. Megabytes are good. I have the uppers and lowers. They have held up to 1.36 60 fts. If you setup a car for drag racing your going to loose all the tight conering. There kind of is no way around that. It is either 1 or the other. My setup is decent on the street. I'll post it up tomorrow so you can some ideas

that is my main issue, i can't give up the ability to corner well. how about torque arm setups vs. stock 4 link, any significant difference in straight line traction?

 

[jkstang78]

that is my main issue, i can't give up the ability to corner well. how about torque arm setups vs. stock 4 link, any significant difference in straight line traction?

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension2.htm

You can also install a torque arm. It consists of a beam that bolts to the differential/rear axle, runs parallel to the driveshaft, and pivots at a point near the transmission output shaft. It prevents pinion angle changes (axle wide-up). When you install a torque arm in combination with a panhard bar or a watts link, they take over both functions of the Mustang's upper control arms (side-to-side axle location and prevention of pinion angle changes). Both of the stock upper control arms can be removed and discarded. Doing that gives you a 3-link rear (shown above). It exhibits almost no bind and performs much better than the stock system during extreme cornering, acceleration, and braking.

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

If you use your car in open track or autocross competition, you'll probably want to leave the stock upper control arms alone and install only new lower control arms. The stock rubber bushings in the upper arms continue to allow the axle to articulate through its full range of motion in turns, while the new lower arms improve axle location. One popular lower arm design (illustrated below) uses segmented poly bushings on the chassis end and spherical bearings on the axle end. This combination has been found to improve rear axle location without any significant increase in suspension bind.