just curious...would it run good without a wideband and custom tune? just want to know what i need to get it up and running? also would my gt40 intake work good you think? im leaning towards the novi 1220sl...i like the look of the kit and the upgraded pulley. would i need any gauges etc to keep an eye on boost levels etc or not necessary?
s/c on stock block and add h/c/i later?
- Thread starter Killer5.0
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Killer if the motor is tight and runs good you will LOVE the centrifugal supercharger and it's a smart choice with higher miles 
I look at them more as belt driven Turbo meaning if your not in the boost they're not stressing the motor and you'd never know it's even there (ok with the Novi you would hear it
)
Even with an entry level intercooled Procharger P-1SC I was able to take my pathetically slow 99GT from 235 RWHP to 384/384 on a very safe street tune for pump gas. You can dam near double your numbers on your race tune. I installed it myself in one day and was driving it that night, it's really not that bad but it helps to have it all planed out in advance.
I put a SVT Focus Pump in my tank with the Bowl Mod and used my old stock Lightning 90mm Maf & 42lb Inj's.
So I could keep driving the car 24/7 I actually put the pump and inj's in a week earlier and had my tuner give me a few start up tunes for different combo's so the day I did the Maf and Supercharger Install I could drive it.
Everything went very smooth and although it's not the prettiest kit the before and after was pretty impressive for crappy looking 4.6 engine compartment.
Amazing what one day and a can of Gunk can achieve
I look at them more as belt driven Turbo meaning if your not in the boost they're not stressing the motor and you'd never know it's even there (ok with the Novi you would hear it
) Even with an entry level intercooled Procharger P-1SC I was able to take my pathetically slow 99GT from 235 RWHP to 384/384 on a very safe street tune for pump gas. You can dam near double your numbers on your race tune. I installed it myself in one day and was driving it that night, it's really not that bad but it helps to have it all planed out in advance.
I put a SVT Focus Pump in my tank with the Bowl Mod and used my old stock Lightning 90mm Maf & 42lb Inj's.
So I could keep driving the car 24/7 I actually put the pump and inj's in a week earlier and had my tuner give me a few start up tunes for different combo's so the day I did the Maf and Supercharger Install I could drive it.
Everything went very smooth and although it's not the prettiest kit the before and after was pretty impressive for crappy looking 4.6 engine compartment.
Amazing what one day and a can of Gunk can achieve
The wide band will be more accurate to show what your a/f is and will help when someone tunes it. You will have to go somewhere to get it tuned. The GT40 intake should work fine, in some of the dyno sheets that I have seen, that intake is one of the best at having the most power throughout the whole rpm range. Yes there are other intakes that will make more power than that will at higher rpms, but for street driving it is good. I would get a boost gauge to see how much boost your getting out of it.
I have done alot of SC installs using the stock 19lbers and FMU and never had an issue on a stock motor. It works fine and thats how that 89 GT was ran until this year, so that was 6 yrs of 19lbers and FMU. I go one heat range colder and gap the plugs .028-.030 and keep the timing at 10*. I have installed Powerdyne, Paxton, Vortech, and Kenne Bell with FMU's and never an issue.
For the $$$ I really like having a wideband though, before they were inexpensive we always just kept an eye on the plugs really close.
Boost gauge is something I'd want, sorry I forgot to mention that. I like the Autometer Z-series if all the gauges are stock. The ProSport are not bad either.
For the $$$ I really like having a wideband though, before they were inexpensive we always just kept an eye on the plugs really close.
Boost gauge is something I'd want, sorry I forgot to mention that. I like the Autometer Z-series if all the gauges are stock. The ProSport are not bad either.
It seems different tuners like different Maf's. My Procharger Kit was used and it came with a Pro M and my tuner told me he wouldnt tune it with that Maf. Since I had my old L Maf we used that and it worked perfect. To tell you the truth with SCT software it was actually just point and click, they already have Cent S/C's listed in a drop down menu along with different Maf's and Inj's, all the tuner needs do is point and click and he already has the basic start up tune. Then they can strap it on the dyno and work their magic and build you a few street and strip tunes.
I cant say for sure if the stock fuel system can handle that addition because all of my SC Lightnings & Mustangs have had upgraded Pumps, Maf, & Inj's, but dsblk93gt has proven they can. It may pay to go that route and get it installed and then use a local tuner to strap it down to a dyno to make sure it's nice and safe.
I cant say for sure if the stock fuel system can handle that addition because all of my SC Lightnings & Mustangs have had upgraded Pumps, Maf, & Inj's, but dsblk93gt has proven they can. It may pay to go that route and get it installed and then use a local tuner to strap it down to a dyno to make sure it's nice and safe.
Alot of tuners won't use those meters unless they have the flow sheet so they can input the MAF transfer function. The SCT BA2400 and BA2800 are good meters to use. Granatelli actually maked those and are still available from them. I used a 90mm LMAF with a MAFia on my car and it worked great too.
All of the tuning software has a starter file for the MAF transfer like you said Rob then it is just tweaked on the dyno.
Multiple things can affect the actual reading of the MAF like the inlet used (intake) before the meter.
The only reason the older Mustangs can get away with an FMU and stock injectors Rob is because they are return style systems unlike the 99 up Stangs. The FMU is not the most accurate method for fueling but it does work OK. You just can't be running a ton of boost with one and 19lbers. A 12:1 FMU is used with the stock injectors, so the fuel pressure is raised 12psi per 1lb boost, so you can imagine how high the pressure gets! It's harder on the fuel pump and injectors.
All of the tuning software has a starter file for the MAF transfer like you said Rob then it is just tweaked on the dyno.
Multiple things can affect the actual reading of the MAF like the inlet used (intake) before the meter.
The only reason the older Mustangs can get away with an FMU and stock injectors Rob is because they are return style systems unlike the 99 up Stangs. The FMU is not the most accurate method for fueling but it does work OK. You just can't be running a ton of boost with one and 19lbers. A 12:1 FMU is used with the stock injectors, so the fuel pressure is raised 12psi per 1lb boost, so you can imagine how high the pressure gets! It's harder on the fuel pump and injectors.
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The Sci-Trim is the same basic headunit as the 1220sl. The 1220 just has the better 8 rib pulley setup. The 8 rib setup is $254 by itself,
Vortech 8E018-333 - Vortech Power Pulley Packs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
With the Vortech I'd get this better discharge pipe too, comes with Bosch bypass and hoses as well. $189
SuperchargersOnline.com :: Product: Vortech Discharge Tube Assembly with Bosch Bypass for 1986-1993 Ford Mustang (Aluminum, upgrade, satin)
and the Paxton $189
SuperchargersOnline.com :: Product: Paxton Discharge Tube Assemlby with Bosch Bypass for 1986-1993 Ford Mustang to be used with Novi SL 1220 (Satin, Aluminum, upgrade)
That's what was cool about the old NOVI 1000, it had the 8 rib and the better discharge. But these 1220SL and SCi-Trim are better head units.
Vortech 8E018-333 - Vortech Power Pulley Packs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
With the Vortech I'd get this better discharge pipe too, comes with Bosch bypass and hoses as well. $189
SuperchargersOnline.com :: Product: Vortech Discharge Tube Assembly with Bosch Bypass for 1986-1993 Ford Mustang (Aluminum, upgrade, satin)
and the Paxton $189
SuperchargersOnline.com :: Product: Paxton Discharge Tube Assemlby with Bosch Bypass for 1986-1993 Ford Mustang to be used with Novi SL 1220 (Satin, Aluminum, upgrade)
That's what was cool about the old NOVI 1000, it had the 8 rib and the better discharge. But these 1220SL and SCi-Trim are better head units.
the novi headunit looks like the satin finish is nicer than the vortech by the pics im seeing or does it just look that way? so if you were me and had to choose which one would you go with? ill probably just buy new that way i dont have to mess around with potential junk or something since i dont know much about them...but since you have pretty much seen them both ill take your advice.
thanks again i do appreciate you taking the time to help me
thanks again i do appreciate you taking the time to help me
The finish on the Paxton is a little smoother, but they both look good. The pic I posted of the 1000 on my cousin's 89 GT is probably close to what the 1220SL would look like.
Look around and see what the best price is on the 1220SL, maybe email Bob Kurgan and see. They are going to end up close to the same even if you buy the 8 ribs for the Vortech. Only thing being you will void warranty on the headunit by changing the pulley on Vortech. With the 1220SL I'd run it as is, add a powerpipe and get 7lbs of boost then add a 8" crank for around 10lbs later.
Also check for a price on a Si-Trim tuner kit maybe and see what that costs.
Look around and see what the best price is on the 1220SL, maybe email Bob Kurgan and see. They are going to end up close to the same even if you buy the 8 ribs for the Vortech. Only thing being you will void warranty on the headunit by changing the pulley on Vortech. With the 1220SL I'd run it as is, add a powerpipe and get 7lbs of boost then add a 8" crank for around 10lbs later.
Also check for a price on a Si-Trim tuner kit maybe and see what that costs.
never even thought about the warranty...probably will go novi then so i can keep the warranty which i thought i read was like 3yrs or something...i will look into the si trim kit but for some reason i thought they were over $3k maybe im wrong. so far as the 8" crank is that simply the pulley that spins the s/c? get that later meaning after i add h/c/i?
im going to email Bob tonight...thanks
im going to email Bob tonight...thanks
and what do you think of this wideband.... (since i also know nothing about these...lol)
- Blowers4Less - Online Store
- Blowers4Less - Online Store
Well anytime you want to up the boost. I have used both the AFM Powerpipe and now have the UPR Boostmaster pipe. The UPR is a plastic version of the AFM pretty much and can get it for around $80-90 new.
By going with the 8" lower you will have better belt wrap (less slip) and keep the 3 yr warranty.
By going with the 8" lower you will have better belt wrap (less slip) and keep the 3 yr warranty.
Yep that was it with the Pro-M and I didnt even think about the return style system since my 99 was NOT. Now it makes sense to me
And I agree you could never go wrong with the BA 24/28 SCT Maf's, especially if your using SCT software.
When I first put my Surge Valve in I was having some issues with it so I bought that Bosch Bypass and it didnt work for me AT ALL. It would just surge 24/7 and it drove me absolutely crazy. It was also much smaller than the original Surge valve that came with mine.
I should mention I DID NOT put the maf where they wanted it because I dont like putting a maf in a fender, instead I did a Blow Through Set up as close to the TB as possible and used the original much larger Surge Valve.
(It didnt have an in or out marked so I flipped it around and it was perfect from that point on)
See the Radiator Like Hose coming off the Procharger Inlet tube, that's what my Surge valve was attached to, it's about double the OD size of that Bosch.
PS
Thanks for the education, there's some GREAT info in this thread
And I agree you could never go wrong with the BA 24/28 SCT Maf's, especially if your using SCT software.
When I first put my Surge Valve in I was having some issues with it so I bought that Bosch Bypass and it didnt work for me AT ALL. It would just surge 24/7 and it drove me absolutely crazy. It was also much smaller than the original Surge valve that came with mine.
I should mention I DID NOT put the maf where they wanted it because I dont like putting a maf in a fender, instead I did a Blow Through Set up as close to the TB as possible and used the original much larger Surge Valve.
(It didnt have an in or out marked so I flipped it around and it was perfect from that point on)
See the Radiator Like Hose coming off the Procharger Inlet tube, that's what my Surge valve was attached to, it's about double the OD size of that Bosch.
PS
Thanks for the education, there's some GREAT info in this thread
Alot of people use them and like them, no internal logging but has 0-5v out. It's probably one of the easiest to install. Alot of guys like the Innovate as well. A few of my friends have the Dynojet WBC and like it too. They are all decent. It might come down to who is tuning the car and what they prefer. I know the NGK AFX is great as well. I have a Zeitronix but had a WMS before.