Pilot Bearing Help

bmob

bmob

Member
#1
#1
Hi guys,

Its been a long while since I have posted last, went through some tough times with the mustang. The 2 piece flywheel wasn't liking the torque and the ring gear the starter engages kept coming loose. After 3 times removing the tranny I learned my lesson and had the machine permanently keep it in place :awesomework:. This time though, I looked into the end of my crank and my pilot bearing is shredded. I mean pins everywhere and the plastic casing was all messed up.

I have a 408w stroker (351w block bored and notched), and I need help to find a bearing that won't shit the bead, that is high quality, and that is reasonably affordable (though I am happy to pay for quality).

Does anyone have any experience with this? I could really use some advice and direction.

Thanks in advance!
 
bmob

bmob

Member
#4
#4
Michael B said:
You can buy solid bronze bushings. Measure your roller style to get the right one
Click to expand...
The thing is, I think I may have made a mistake with the prior Pilot Bearing.

I froze the bearing to get it into the crank easier, and I used a large socket over the outside of it to hammer it into place. I did not measure the 'roller style' or input shaft diameter. Should I find a micrometer and measure my tranny's input shaft diameter?

Here is a link to the site of the bearing I had that shit the bed...

Ford Racing Mustang Roller Pilot Bearing (289, 302, 5.0L, 351) M-7600-A - Free Shipping!

I am having trouble finding a brass bearing that is solid instead of roller
 
4eyedcoupe

4eyedcoupe

Formally Ihatemyliver
#5
#5
bmob

bmob

Member
#6
#6
Thanks for all the help guys! Really do appreciate it!

Got the bearing out and the new one in (no freezing this time).

Let me tell you the horror story that removing that bearing was.

After removing the tranny, clutch, pressure plate and flywheel, I had exposed the torn up pilot bearing (the inner casing was shot, and the bearings were all in the back towards the crank). I did not have the pilot bearing puller tool, so I went the grease hydraulic route (see video here [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHnTZLT2ihw]How to Remove a Clutch Pilot Bearing Toyota 20R 22R 22RE 22RET 1979-1995 - YouTube[/ame] ) and that didn't work (put about 3 hours into trying that method). :smash:

The next day, I went to advanced auto and borrowed the bearing puller I needed. Sure enough, the bearing puller wasn't working either, it would just slip off the back and not grip.

I made my own puller after that, with 2 different size carriage bolts (one large, one medium) and used a socket, nut and washer to pull the bolts out from behind the bearing as I tightened the nut down. Broke the grade 8 bolts doing this.:mad:

After 11 hours messing with it, I got fed up enough to take an air dremmel to it. I wore the inside of the bearing down all the way to the crank, and split one side of it. The bearing collapsed a little, giving me the freedom to pull it out easier with the puller tool.

All in all it took 13 hours to get that bearing out, and If I ever have to deal with another pilot bearing again, it will be too soon!!!!
 
FrostByte

FrostByte

Well-Known Member
#7
#7
MAKES YOU WANT TO THROW OR SMASH SOME THING VALUABLE DOSNT IT?! But hey, u won the battle!!!!!!
I just had an alternator that would only work when being fault tested, bish.
 
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