Murphy's Law gets a 410
- Thread starter 302N20
- Start date
Its been 6 weeks since the car was on all 4s, It will be tonight as I and going to through the rear tires back on it.
I plan on moving to the front now, seeing if the new front brake lines fit or not, and I also am going to take apart the front wheel bearings and give them new grease, maybe replace them if they are worn.
With the warm weather they are calling for this weekend, I plan on rolling the car out of the garage, de-greaseing/powerwashing the engine bay, and giving it a quick coat of semi-gloss.
Some things left to do before I get the motor from Jay with the chassis....
`I need to clearance my factory gauge cluster so my new ones do not hit it. Right now they hit my cluster when installed and they get pushed out about 1/2 inch.
`Need to tuck away the battery cable in the interior and put some of the trim panels back on that I took off to run it
`Install the bracket for the battery shutoff switch and out the switch on it, and drill the hole for the rod to come out of the rear of the car.
`Finish extending part of the wiring harness in the engine bay to go around the new larger radiator to hook into the ABS.
`Bleed the brakes
`Reinstall Gas tank
`Enlarge the hole in the inner fender for the new Cold Air Intake pipe (4"), currently is 2.5"-3"
Sunday I dropped the front bumper off with Matt to get it re-painted. 15 years and 124,xxx miles have taken their toll.
I have quite a few things to do once I get the motor.
`Clearance the alt. for the new valve covers
`Check the clearance between the Harmonic Balancer and the bottom of the water pump housing
`Install the MSD Digital 6 in the car (under the passenger seat) and run all the wires into the engine bay to the correct length they need to be.
`Install the new CAI in the fender and get a Filter to fit it.
`I will need to take some measurements of the block + Intake. I am talking to some people over on Corral.net right now(LS1tech for mustangs, been around for 15 years) and I might need to go with a taller hood than the 3" cowl design that I wanted. That worries me for 2 reasons:
1) I don't want taller than a 3" cown on the car,
2) the hood design I want they only make in a 3" cowl.
I'm sure I'm forgetting an item or two, I need to get a timing pointer for the car....just remembered that, but there are things to do. New motor and clutch will have to be broken in too. Then the car will get tuned.
I plan on moving to the front now, seeing if the new front brake lines fit or not, and I also am going to take apart the front wheel bearings and give them new grease, maybe replace them if they are worn.
With the warm weather they are calling for this weekend, I plan on rolling the car out of the garage, de-greaseing/powerwashing the engine bay, and giving it a quick coat of semi-gloss.
Some things left to do before I get the motor from Jay with the chassis....
`I need to clearance my factory gauge cluster so my new ones do not hit it. Right now they hit my cluster when installed and they get pushed out about 1/2 inch.
`Need to tuck away the battery cable in the interior and put some of the trim panels back on that I took off to run it
`Install the bracket for the battery shutoff switch and out the switch on it, and drill the hole for the rod to come out of the rear of the car.
`Finish extending part of the wiring harness in the engine bay to go around the new larger radiator to hook into the ABS.
`Bleed the brakes
`Reinstall Gas tank
`Enlarge the hole in the inner fender for the new Cold Air Intake pipe (4"), currently is 2.5"-3"
Sunday I dropped the front bumper off with Matt to get it re-painted. 15 years and 124,xxx miles have taken their toll.
I have quite a few things to do once I get the motor.
`Clearance the alt. for the new valve covers
`Check the clearance between the Harmonic Balancer and the bottom of the water pump housing
`Install the MSD Digital 6 in the car (under the passenger seat) and run all the wires into the engine bay to the correct length they need to be.
`Install the new CAI in the fender and get a Filter to fit it.
`I will need to take some measurements of the block + Intake. I am talking to some people over on Corral.net right now(LS1tech for mustangs, been around for 15 years) and I might need to go with a taller hood than the 3" cowl design that I wanted. That worries me for 2 reasons:
1) I don't want taller than a 3" cown on the car,
2) the hood design I want they only make in a 3" cowl.
I'm sure I'm forgetting an item or two, I need to get a timing pointer for the car....just remembered that, but there are things to do. New motor and clutch will have to be broken in too. Then the car will get tuned.
After 2 different nitrous set ups, the motor coming in and out about have a dozen times, and 15 years of life I figured it was time to freshen up the engine bay. I do not have a paint booth, a paint gun, ect, but I think for $30 of de-greaser, primer, and paint, while painting outside, it came out bad ass.
BTW I used Semi-Gloss Black.
Car was out in the daylight for the first time since October...
Here is what I started with, I got most of the wiring harness out and taped up the major things I left. Didn't want to turn it intp a huge project of stripping everything out of the bay, not like i was shaving it.
Foamy...
All Clean, here is what I have to work with. Not bad considering how Fords love to rust.
Under the old battery tray, eh could be worse.
Primer
Time to paint
All Done!
BTW I used Semi-Gloss Black.
Car was out in the daylight for the first time since October...
Here is what I started with, I got most of the wiring harness out and taped up the major things I left. Didn't want to turn it intp a huge project of stripping everything out of the bay, not like i was shaving it.
Foamy...
All Clean, here is what I have to work with. Not bad considering how Fords love to rust.
Under the old battery tray, eh could be worse.
Primer
Time to paint
All Done!
I'm Fucking Pumped!!! I have been worried that I will have clearance problems with my 3 inch cowl hood with the taller Box style upper intake. From all accounts the manifold style with a 1 inch spacer will barely clear, and touches a 3 inch cowl. My set up will be 1.25 inches taller than a manifold w/o a spacer, so even with a spacer the manfiold style upper is still .25 inches shorter than mine.
I was going to get my hood from Kaenen which is a 3 inch cowl but I remembered that Cervini's also makes the same style hood. I thought their hood was also 3 inch but it's 3.5"!!!!!!!!! woohooo!!! I should be able to clear everything with the Cervini's hood.
Here is a pic of it since I don't think I put one in this thread...
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I was going to get my hood from Kaenen which is a 3 inch cowl but I remembered that Cervini's also makes the same style hood. I thought their hood was also 3 inch but it's 3.5"!!!!!!!!! woohooo!!! I should be able to clear everything with the Cervini's hood.
Here is a pic of it since I don't think I put one in this thread...
Since the gauges I bought were deeper than normal I guess, they hit my gauge cluster and would not seat all the way into the bezel. So I pulled the cluster this weekend and clearance the corners of it so the gauges would seat all the way into the bezel.
I started off by marking the visible area with a dry-erase marker so I knew what I cut would not show once installed.
then I rough cut the corners.
Then I smoothed them out
And all done
I started off by marking the visible area with a dry-erase marker so I knew what I cut would not show once installed.
then I rough cut the corners.
Then I smoothed them out
And all done
De-taped most of then engine bay last night. I determined after pulling some more of the wiring harness apart I will not be able to just re-route it around the radiator, but I will need to lengthen about 12 wires, will be doing that one night is up coming week. I out the rest of the interior back together and tucked about the new battery cable, God I hate working in the interior of cars. Also re-measured my bracket for my kill switch and that will be getting modified today. Once I have that bolted down I can put the trunk back together.
Last night I made some progress on the small stuff.
I thought my front wheel bearings were the old school rebuildable ones like a Fox body, but upon further inspection last night they are a sealed unit so I won't be needing to refresh them until they go.
I took out the SN-95 throttle cable and put in the Fox body throttle cable in. Only had to modify the bracket a little for the firewall.
I also swapped out the SN-95 Cruise control cable for the Fox body one, what a WHORE that was working inside the fender, I thought about taking the fender off about 1/2 way through this job but I got it done.
My new upper radiator brackets are made, measured up for my lower brackets last night, they should be made soon.
I thought my front wheel bearings were the old school rebuildable ones like a Fox body, but upon further inspection last night they are a sealed unit so I won't be needing to refresh them until they go.
I took out the SN-95 throttle cable and put in the Fox body throttle cable in. Only had to modify the bracket a little for the firewall.
I also swapped out the SN-95 Cruise control cable for the Fox body one, what a WHORE that was working inside the fender, I thought about taking the fender off about 1/2 way through this job but I got it done.
My new upper radiator brackets are made, measured up for my lower brackets last night, they should be made soon.
Backside all complete
Battery Box complete (I'll re-paint the bracket for the safety switch when I feel like it)
Install Foxbody cruise control cable
All covered back up
Upper Radiator Brackets - still have to snap a pic pof the lower ones
Upgraded the Cluster to LEDs to help make it brighter to match the new gauges
Old Bulbs
New LEDs
Modified bracket and installed Fox Throttle cable
New gas pedal, broke it 2 years ago, finished it off last year.
The Baller Bullit replacement was 1/2 the price of an OEM one.
Battery Box complete (I'll re-paint the bracket for the safety switch when I feel like it)
Install Foxbody cruise control cable
All covered back up
Upper Radiator Brackets - still have to snap a pic pof the lower ones
Upgraded the Cluster to LEDs to help make it brighter to match the new gauges
Old Bulbs
New LEDs
Modified bracket and installed Fox Throttle cable
New gas pedal, broke it 2 years ago, finished it off last year.
The Baller Bullit replacement was 1/2 the price of an OEM one.
Sodered some wires together tonight to fix a boo boo I made when cutting the harness apart months ago.
Found I need more room for the harness to go around my radiator. I thought about a BFH to make some room but I thought just cutting out a slot would be cleaner. So out came the dremel and I popped the cherry on the paint job in the engine bay.
Found I need more room for the harness to go around my radiator. I thought about a BFH to make some room but I thought just cutting out a slot would be cleaner. So out came the dremel and I popped the cherry on the paint job in the engine bay.