87 5.0 won't start - ignition ok, fuel pump ok
- Thread starter mmp142965
- Start date
Been having some computer problems lately.
the belt needs to come from the smog pump eliminator pulley then go up over the water pump, then down to the left side of the crank pulley, the problem is there is no power steering pump so the water pump is spinning the wrong way, not sure but i think there is an eliminator kit for the power steering to correct this. Also the "cooling" lines going to the throttle body are actually "warming" lines for cold weather, they are to warm the cold are coming into the intake, since you live in florida you are okay without them unless you drive the car in freezing weather, plus colder intake air=more power
the belt needs to come from the smog pump eliminator pulley then go up over the water pump, then down to the left side of the crank pulley, the problem is there is no power steering pump so the water pump is spinning the wrong way, not sure but i think there is an eliminator kit for the power steering to correct this. Also the "cooling" lines going to the throttle body are actually "warming" lines for cold weather, they are to warm the cold are coming into the intake, since you live in florida you are okay without them unless you drive the car in freezing weather, plus colder intake air=more power
The warming lines are cooling lines when the egr valve opens and 1500 deg. exhaust gases enter the intake.
You can never stop learning........
Its actually a double edged sword. The egr is active at all times except at wot.
So if the lines are bypassed then you have hot exhaust gasses heating up the intake while the engine is running, then at wot the intake is heatsoaked. OR You leave the lines on and you get hot coolant through the lines at wot instead.
The best way to go is to leave them on for daily driving and take them off at the track. However, we were doing this back in 91 when the 5.0 movement was just beginning and saw no difference at the track either way.
Now one might say to pull the egr valve connection and disable it. Good idea in theory but we found out that the computer sees this and reduces timing resulting in a loss of .10 sec in the quarter mile.
Bottom line is that if you want to remove it you have to go all the way and take off everything and have a chip burned accordingly-- which is a lot to do for a very small gain.
Its actually a double edged sword. The egr is active at all times except at wot.
So if the lines are bypassed then you have hot exhaust gasses heating up the intake while the engine is running, then at wot the intake is heatsoaked. OR You leave the lines on and you get hot coolant through the lines at wot instead.
The best way to go is to leave them on for daily driving and take them off at the track. However, we were doing this back in 91 when the 5.0 movement was just beginning and saw no difference at the track either way.
Now one might say to pull the egr valve connection and disable it. Good idea in theory but we found out that the computer sees this and reduces timing resulting in a loss of .10 sec in the quarter mile.
Bottom line is that if you want to remove it you have to go all the way and take off everything and have a chip burned accordingly-- which is a lot to do for a very small gain.
Yes but the tube on the back of the head is for the smog pump. The egr riser is in the center of each head. with the egr passage in the middle of the intake. If your heads dont have the risers (which there are few) then the egr function stops. But as long as the valve is there and connected the computer thinks everything is ok.