You don't say how many miles you have now.
Apparently it's still the factory clutch plate and flywheel. The TOB hopefully wouldn't be bad again, but you never know.
I just put a spec 3+ in a month ago, after having the clutch replaced in April! The TOB CAN go out quickly, mine did between April and November. Started with mild chirping got bad quick and pissed me off!
If you're putting significantly more than stock hp down it's likely that the clutch system isn't going to last. Mine didn't, and the one I had put in didn't, but I got ripped on that (the clutch and pressure plate weren't suitable for the hp) and I suspect they hung the trans by the input shaft which can jack it all up. I had a crapload of burnt dust, chatter all the time, and hot spots all over the flywheel.
The wear on the clutch plate has really nothing to do with the TOB, but when you have the trans out it's almost an automatic to replace the clutch plate.
If and when the trans is out, check the wear on the flywheel and see if there are hot spots. If the flywheel is burnt or worn, it could possibly be resurfaced but I dont recommend this either. The LAST thing you want to do if you have to pull the trans is cheap out and not put new parts in.
Even if you've never done it before, there are some excellent videos that have been posted to walk you through it. If you are fairly well mechanically inclined you can do a complete clutch job. A couple of jacks, 4 or 6 jack stands, decent socket wrenches with lots of extension pieces are the minimum tools you'll need. Option 2 is to have a TRUSTED mechanic or pay a shitload to the dealer and have it done right. I cannot emphasize enough the the clutch system needs to be suitable for the hp as well as the usage. Sounds like its a street car, not a track car.
