help with codes I'm throwing

[TBapp3]

So I drive the Stang the other day, it was very shortly lived....i was very low on gas so I got gas the hoped on I87 right next to the gas station...i then go south 2 exits then hit the off ramp ...when I come up on the light at the end of the ramp the car is sputtering and shaky plus about to stall I get out of the road and pulled over the car sounds odd as well...
I then drive it straight home at a slow rate, the car seemed to run worse at a low rpm verse a higher one (i had to take the high way back as well) but on the way home my ses light comes on in a flashing manner...
I get her home and hook up my sct xcal to run the codes and a few come up... :/

P1460 was the first,i looked it up but all the humble jumble kinda just lost me...

P0300 then came witch I understand is telling me there s a misfire...
P0301, P0306 are the final two codes I understand that's saying the misfire is in cyl. 1 and 6

But

What to do now...i read a whole lot of trouble shooting for these misfire codes, I'm hoping someone knows a much better way of fixing it and finding the culprit then throwing a bunch of parts at it...

Any help/advice will be gratefully appreciated!

TBapp

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[Noterminator]

The first one is usually a short in your A/C unit, relay, or even a bad PCM possibly.

Here's some info on that:

P1460 - Wide Open Throttle A/C Cutout Primary Circuit Malfunction


NOTE: For applications that use a normally open relay to control the A/C clutch, the following description applies to the A/C clutch relay control circuit.
Monitors the wide open throttle A/C cutoff (WAC) circuit output from the PCM. The test fails if: When the PCM grounds the WAC circuit, excessive current draw is detected on the WAC circuit; or with the WAC circuit not grounded by the PCM, voltage is not detected on the WAC circuit (the PCM expects to detect VPWR voltage coming through the WAC relay coil to the WAC circuit).

Open or shorted WAC circuit
Damaged WAC relay (or CCRM)
Open VPWR circuit to WAC relay
Damaged PCM
When the WACF PID reads YES, a fault is currently present
An open circuit or short to ground can only be detected when the PCM is not grounding the circuit
A short to power can only be detected when the PCM is grounding the circuit
During KOEO and KOER self-test, the WAC circuit will be cycled ON and OFF
Verify A/C and defrost were OFF during KOEO and KOER self-test (Check ACCS PID to verify)
If vehicle is not equipped with A/C, DTC P1460 can be ignored

The P0300 usually means blockage or stuck open EGR valve, which could also mean a possible read error by the PCM.

This may help for that:


P0300 - Random Misfire


The random misfire DTC indicates multiple cylinders are misfiring or the PCM cannot identify which cylinder is misfiring.

Camshaft position sensor (CMP)
Low fuel: less than 1/8 tank
Stuck open EGR valve
Blocked EGR passages
One or more EGR passages may be blocked or partially blocked. If this is the case the Misfire Detection Monitor will indicate the EGR port to check for possible blockage.


And the P0301 and P0306 are usually grouped in together through P0301-P0310. Usually this is from misfire due to bad spark, bad injectors, etc.

Heres some info on that as well:


P0301 through P0310 - Misfire Detection Monitor


The misfire detection monitor is designed to monitor engine misfire and identify the specific cylinder in which the misfire has occurred. Misfire is defined as lack of combustion in a cylinder due to absence of spark, poor fuel metering, poor compression, or any other cause.

Ignition system
Fuel injectors
Running out of fuel
EVAP canister purge valve
Fuel pressure
Evaporative emission system
Base engine
The MIL will blink once per second when a misfire is detected severe enough to cause catalyst damage. If the MIL is on steady state, due to a misfire, this will indicate the threshold for emissions was exceeded and cause the vehicle to fail an inspection and maintenance tailpipe test.


When did you last give her a good tune-up? I'd try changing the plugs and wires, check the fuel injectors, and possibly get a new PCM put in. That def sucks man.

 

[ShelbyGT]

first swap the coils on one and six to other cylinders, like 2 and 8, and see if the misfire moves to those cylinders. if it does, its bad coils. if not, i could be injectors or something else. start there though. let us know what happens

 

[TBapp3]

Thanks Mike I'll def give that a try and check back in...

Tim I already googled the codes myself and came up with those answers lol I was looking for someone who may have EXPERIENCE to give advice and help me get her fixed ...ps I don't have wires

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[Noterminator]

Thanks Mike I'll def give that a try and check back in...

Tim I already googled the codes myself and came up with those answers lol I was looking for someone who may have EXPERIENCE to give advice and help me get her fixed ...ps I don't have wires

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Then what aren't you understanding? You need a tune up, and new injectors. Possibly a new PCM. Not sure what else your asking. I told you what you need to do man.

 

[TBapp3]

so iv now swopped coil number 1 to number 2 and 6 to 5 but have another question ... I unhooked the battery to do it so now when I go to read the codes the car shows to have none....i fired it and it is def s still misfiring / not ruining right but is there a way to get the codes to re show with out running the car...
Out is painful to me to let it run

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[Wicked One]

Short answer........nope
Long answer.........no there is not.

A missfire at idle isn't going to hurt the motor. It is when you put a load on it or rev it.

Best of luck.

 

[TBapp3]

Thanks Gregg, so to get the codes can I let it run then cool off and go through a few various heat cycles or something ?
The only way I know of getting them to show is to drive the 100 miles or whatever and I def don't want to do that if I don't have to...

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[ShelbyGT]

Just to start with the simple stuff, put a set of fresh plugs in it. Even though they may not too old you could still have some bad ones. About a year ago I tuned up the girlfriends car and not two months later had the same problem you are having. Turned out to be two bad plugs. Needless to say, I'll never buy Bosch plugs again!

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[FrostByte]

Thanks Gregg, so to get the codes can I let it run then cool off and go through a few various heat cycles or something ?
The only way I know of getting them to show is to drive the 100 miles or whatever and I def don't want to do that if I don't have to...

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Code should re-appear immediatly, may take a short drive to put a load on it.

Ill help you change "what ever" but u need the "what ever" in the first place. Again the wisest thing is just to do a complete tune up, plugs & wires. otherwise you will be doing this every few months.

 

[Noterminator]

Code should re-appear immediatly, may take a short drive to put a load on it.

Ill help you change "what ever" but u need the "what ever" in the first place. Again the wisest thing is just to do a complete tune up, plugs & wires. otherwise you will be doing this every few months.

+1

Just do the full tune up, and you should be fine. Have you even done a tune up since you've owned it? If not its way over due lol.

 

[BAzombie]

Thanks Mike I'll def give that a try and check back in...

Tim I already googled the codes myself and came up with those answers lol I was looking for someone who may have EXPERIENCE to give advice and help me get her fixed ...ps I don't have wires

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Todd, if your COP's are anything like my '99 F150's then you do have wires, kind of.

They're the little 5" boot that goes between the coil and plug. I bought 2 COP's at $65 each before I realized you can buy just the boots for $7 each. :smash:


Hope you get it straightened out.

 

[TBapp3]

Thanks For that offer Ed!
And yup sounds like there exactly the same Bert...
I gotta save up a little money but am then gonna get all new cop's and plugs and see what happens from there...

anyone know where I can find stock motocraft coils ? iv not been able to find anything but aftermarket any where , or I'm open to suggestions on aftermarket...

 

[ShelbyGT]

i would do just plugs and boots first. do'nt be so quick to throw too many parts at it

 

[TBapp3]

Well last night I started with just the plugs that did me nothing ... I also drained the oil just to see how it looks and oil looked perfect still witch was a relieve to me...

One Of the plugs that was in a misfiring cyl was wet on the tip/threads (maybe oil) when none of the others were that had me thinking...anyone know what it could be a sign of?

Also when ruining the car it stinks extra strong of gas, nothing leaking under the car but the smell is very strong

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[ShelbyGT]

Ok. Now on the cylinder with the wet plug, unhook that injector for that same cylinder and run the engine. If the engine runs the same, that injector may be bad. If it runs worse, then its something else. Let us know how it goes

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[TBapp3]

Ok thanks I'll do that today and check back! but should I unhook the injector when the car is running or before firing it?

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[FrostByte]

b 4

 

[2006f350psd]

Plug is wet cause that cylinder is not firing meaning you need the 2 coils the codes were for.

 

[TBapp3]

Is that how you feel about it Keith?

Is there any reason that the car should have a tick because of misfiring? I can't tell exactly where it is coming from but there is a horrible sound under there.... Not sure if its the engine or something to do with the other code not the engine or misfire at all???

I never made it to the car today,i will get to it again one night this week and see if unhooking the injector does anything to the way it runs

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