Sorry just getting to this. Before anybody runs nitrous oxide they should really understand how it works and the parts it will affect. The 1st thing I will say is that a properly set up system is much more involved than just buying a kit.
Nitrous Oxide is a mixture of Nitrogen and Oxygen and while it doesn't burn in it's original state it will lower intake temperatures (liquid nitrogen) and add oxygen that will make the fuel burn better. However, when you add oxygen you need to add fuel. Adding oxygen without extra fuel will cause a lean condition which will raise the combustion temperatures far beyond the limits of any parts in the cylinder causing melt down. Adding too much fuel will cause another kind of detonation. The fuel will not burn all the way and a few things can happen.
The 1st is that the fuel can puddle between the top ring and piston top. When the fuel ignites in the ring land it can pop the top ring land right off the piston. The 2nd is the extra pressure can cause a detonation "rattle". If you have ever seen detonation happen in slow motion it's amazing. The crank can turn backwards up to 5* EVERY time the engine fires. We had a small rattle on a run once and actually welded the balancer to the crankshaft.
Now, most people believe that running nitrous oxide is the "cheap and easy way" to make HP. Well even though it acts a little differently it's very similar to forced induction. Forced induction though and intercooler adds ice cold air, along with fuel and cylinder pressures to create more power.
Now that you have a basic idea of how it works another thing people don't realize is that nitrous oxide actually adds more torque than it does HP. The HP rating on the kit is usually RWHP. It's going to be hard on the top rod bearings, transmission, driveshaft and rear end. However if you are only planning on a 100 shot I wouldn't worry too much about damage.
This is what I recommend for a 100 shot on a 2V and what you do with it is up to you.
2V intakes have a problem with fuel puddling in them causing them to basically erupt inside. That's why I'm not a fan of throttle body wet plates or wet nozzles in the intake tract. NOS has a new direct port wet kit with nozzles that actually sit under the injectors. It keeps the mixture out of the intake which will save you a big headache. Yes, it's expensive but you get what you pay for.
Also, no kit should be installed without:
- a good nitrous filter
- A wide open throttle switch
- A good RPM window switch to keep you from activating at too low of an RPM or running nitrous when you hit the rev limiter.
- 1 to 2 steps colder on the spark plugs.
- You will want to pull a couple degrees of timing. Baseline is 1 to 2 degrees per 50hp.
- You will want a good fuel pressure cut off switch. If you lose fuel pressure it will take the ground away from the solenoids.
- Bottle heater with pressure switch to keep bottle pressure around 950 psi. (No torches)
- Bottle blow down tube to direct nitrous out of the car in car of rupture.
- All solenoids MUST be run off a relay. If you have a transbrake I can provide you with a wiring diagram I developed for trans brake interupter.
I hope this helps. If you have any more questions just ask.
