Write up shows how to drop 03 Cobra tank and swap out the two Cobra pumps for a dual Ford GT (supercar) pumps setup in the OEM Cobra fuel hat:
*Using a Fore Precision fuel hat in place of the OEM Cobra fuel hat makes the install even easier. Pumps just drop in and Fore fuel hat comes setup with the PPRV delete.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/03...-03-04-cobra-dual-pump-billet-top-hat-p-14889
Fuel lines have to be upgraded to -an braided lines and -an fittings to work with Fore fuel hat. This fuel setup will work with 99-04 GT's using 03 Cobra fuel tank.
*99-04 GT's looking to just upgrade to 03 Cobra tank and dual Cobra pumps (not dual Ford GT pumps) can follow this write up (pics have been removed in link, but info is still good):
http://www.modularpowerhouse.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31613&highlight=cobra+tank+install
Tank Removal/Pump Upgrade Step by Step
by
Sharkster
Make sure you run your fuel down to empty and the fuel light comes on or its going to suck big time. No fuel in the tank and its a breeze. Obviously get the bitch up on jackstands, get it up there you have to get the tank down and slide it out, you can leave the wheels on or take them off, doesnt matter. Some people do it with the tank under the car on the jack. I wanted room to work and not have to put myself in an awkward position where I would break something on the hat trying to get it out of the tank. A few more steps and the tank is out. Release the fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the passenger side, front fuel rail. or get sprayed in the face when you pop the fuel filter. Use a 3/8 metal fuel fitting release key and unhook the fuel filter and clamps.
Position your jack in the center of the tank guard, use a small section of 2x4 or 2x6 on the jack if you can, jack up a little so the weight is on the jack and not the bolts and straps. Use a 3/8 fuel release key (get it at the auto parts store). Get the metal hinged one and save yourself the aggravation. Use the cheap plastic one and you will fight with it forever.
Remove the small screw holding the filler pipe bracket on the passenger side.
Remove the 2 tank strap bolts on the passenger side and the 1 on the driver side, the tank will be held up by the jack now. There isn’t a 4th bolt as the drivers side is hinged and swings down.
Slowly start to lower the jack, about 4 or 5 inches to disconnect the vacuum lines. 1 line on each side has a locking U clip connecting it. (See photos pumps010.JPG and pumps015.JPG) If your tank is empty enough you can have someone hold one side of the actual tank and you the other and drop down black plastic cover. It can be a pain.
Another view of the straps undone and tank on its way down.
Once the lines are undone let the jack down a little more. Take the vacuum lines out of the clips running around the back side of the tank.... they are on both sides. Simple, they pop right out of the clips.
On top at the back of the tank you will see a wiring harness connector. Unclip it.
Close up of the vacuum lines on the drivers side.
Vacuum/vapor breather U lock clip on driver side. Use a flat tip screw driver to pry it out while pulling the tips apart on the top. Pry down while the tips are out and it will pop right out.
Fuel filter area again.
Passenger side vacuum lines and breathers. Should be 2, pull them off.
Fuel pump area. Line undone to tank.
Locking U clip on the passenger side/Vacuum lines passenger side. Do not disconnect the filler pipe from the filler door area!!! it doesn’t need to be nor does anything need to be done inside the fuel filler door.
Drivers side (right/yellow) and passenger side (left/black) U clips See the locking tips. Those need to be spread apart while prying them out.
You will need another person to help you get the filler neck out of the tank. Lower the jack a little more so the driver side is a little lower than the passenger side. Hold the neck in place (don’t break it) with your right hand, push with your left and have someone else rock the tank back and forth while pulling. IT WILL COME OUT Going back in, take the large rubber grommet off and put it back into the side of the tank. It’s much easier to put the filler tube back in. There should be about another 5 inches of filler pipe in the tank from what you see in the photo.
The tank is fairly light and can be held in place by one person as long as its empty. You wont be able to hold it forever. Slide that bad boy right out and get to work on the hat (uh!! NO SMOKING AT THIS POINT AND VENTILATE THE GARAGE)
Filler pipe after removal from the tank. (my tip popped off inside the tank) if that happens, unfold a wire coat hanger and fish it out with a flashlight to see. There is a black plastic conical piece that goes on where my finger is…. It’s in the tank by the way.
Tank down with fuel hat in. Clean off all of the sand and gravel before moving on or you will probably drop it in the tank. Remove the 6 bolts around the hat. Upper left and upper right you can see the clips used to hold the hosing in place.... simple eh?
Coming out of the tank. Some people have problems with this as did I at first. Start by gently bringing the rear of the hat up first. The rear being the opposite side of the hose connection to the filter. Pull it towards you putting pressure on the hoses to give you more room to back it out. Keep the pressure off of the float arm and the sending unit.
Disconnect the wiring harness connector going to the hat.
Items needed for the GT40 pump upgrade, hose upgrade and PPRV delete. Cut the metal bands off of the hosing to your new GT40 pumps and pull off that crap hose. You won’t be using it. Undo the metal clamp holding the pumps in place on the hat.
Ready for stuff to get cut off. Razor blade the hoses at the tops of the pumps and pull that cheap shit out of there. Gently slice the remainder off after the pumps are out or you can do it later after the pumps are out. Easier to work with when the hoses are all cut off.
Remove the padded filters and undo the screw holding the metal band clamp around the pump baskets.
Fuel hat right out of the tank. Float arm and sending unit (white).
You don’t have to do any cutting on the bottoms of the baskets. Just reuse the cobra padded filters or go buy new cobra filters. They are interchangeable with the GT40’s and press right in. The ones that come with the GT40 pumps are too big and too much hassle to make work.
After disconnecting the band around the pumps let it all hang out. PPRV is the white device in the middle.
Pumps and hosing out. Just the basket.
You will be re-using these spade connectors inside the plastic connector. Don’t damage the spades.
Using channel lock or pliers, crack the black plastic around the spade connectors. Just enough pressure to crack them.
GT40 pump. Cut the metal band at the base if you haven’t already done so. You won’t need the hosing as your upgrading the hose.
As your Looking at it. Positive is on the right. Pink with the purple stripe connects to the positive/ Negative is on the left and black connects to it. It is opposite to that of the Cobra pumps. REMEMBER THIS It should be labeled, some aren’t.
The spade clips you just got out of the black plastic housing. Make sure they are not damaged or bent where they cant be used. Some people are spot soldering the spade clips to the pumps. Personal preference. I merely crimped them down and they are snug and holding. Black plastic connector you broke off wont work with these pumps.
Take the GT40 pumps out of the baskets and cut the metal tabs holding the rubber hosing so they look like this (if you still haven’t done so) hahaha
Once everything is off start with your first piece of hosing. Don’t connect everything yet. Do a rough layout of the hosing to see how it will fit and what you will need to cut off. You will need to cut off a little in a few places. Don’t cut yourself short. Don’t use to much as it will kink and smash in the bends and you can go lean. You will most likely reuse the Y fitting instead of the new one. I did. I used a dab of clean motor oil on a Q tip to ring around the inside of the hose where the fittings would go. Then wipe it out and push them in. They should go right in. Put your clamps on but dont tighten them all the way. Remember ROUGH DRAFT at first
Some people are using double clamps at the connections for added security. I used one and felt confident that it held and still is. Some are also using clamps in the bends to keep the hose from flattening out. I didn’t feel it was necessary
Hosing attached and fitment checked.
Done!! Make sure the metal band clamp is tight. All of your clamps are tight. I also used some vinyl tie wraps to hold it firmer in place. Get the vinyl tie wraps as they wont degrade in the fuel. Slip the float in first, press in on the hosing (dont smash the sending unit and board) You may have to wiggle it in but it will go in. Keep pressing in on the hosing to give room to the front. Once you have the hat in place take a flashlight and lift up on the front of the hat and shine your light in. Look at the sending unit where the float arm connects to it. Make sure the elbow in the float arm didn’t disconnect itself from the sending unit. Better to check now unless you want to find out when your fuel gauge doesn’t read and you have to do this all over again. If it popped off you can take the hat back out or try and stick your finger in and push the arm back onto the sending unit. Try and keep the force off of the arm and sending unit and it wont pop off but checking it now saves you the hassle off dropping your tank and doing this all over again when your fuel gauge doesn’t work. Connect everything back up and slide the tank back up. Make sure all of your vacuum lines are back on and the locking U clamps are snapped in place.
*Using a Fore Precision fuel hat in place of the OEM Cobra fuel hat makes the install even easier. Pumps just drop in and Fore fuel hat comes setup with the PPRV delete.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/03...-03-04-cobra-dual-pump-billet-top-hat-p-14889
Fuel lines have to be upgraded to -an braided lines and -an fittings to work with Fore fuel hat. This fuel setup will work with 99-04 GT's using 03 Cobra fuel tank.
*99-04 GT's looking to just upgrade to 03 Cobra tank and dual Cobra pumps (not dual Ford GT pumps) can follow this write up (pics have been removed in link, but info is still good):
http://www.modularpowerhouse.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31613&highlight=cobra+tank+install
Last edited: