*Engine - 1995 351w Roller engine, Freshly rebuilt, never fired - Set up for MAF, new water pump, timing cover, oil pump, oil pan, lifters, pushrods. Ford Racing Valve covers
*GT40P Heads - Everything new, machined and completely rebuilt. Installed w/ ARP Bolts and Felpro gaskets
These parts...
Because people are stupid sir. If primer is exposed to the elements it willl not promote topcoat adheasion at all. Minerals are the enemy of paint. Here is an example of a Data Sheet. If you think you can paint a car without these, you are in for trouble. Even guys that have painted for 30 years...
Thats kind of in the middle. You should be fine with the DTM. Especially if you have body work around in that area. Etch Primer and body filler dont go well together
In a Mustang??? For the amount of money you would spend fabbing motor mounts, an intake, and a new hood you could build the motor you have and run 11's
If you dont have huge spots of bare metal thejn I wouldnt bother. The DTM will stick to it.
Some guys think that. Im not one of them. Besides, primer is the base to which your entire paint job bites into. Do you really wanna find out the hard way that its not sticking? i.e. Having your entire...
If I were you, heres what I would do:
Nason Etch on the bare metal
Nason 2k Build primer
Chromabase BC
Chromabase Snap Dry Clear
Just pay attention to the data sheets and you'll be fine.
And by the way, if it has been sitting bare metal since you started this thread it is already flash rusted and you will have to scuff it again. Flash rust can happen in as little as 1.5 hours in a high humidity area
Oooooh Why did you take the car to bare metal??? If thats the case you need to put a good etch primer on it before a high build!!! The so called "DTM" primer that you purchased is not made for large surface area applications. When a manufacturer advertises "DTM" on their product, they do not...